Buckingham PalaceA few weeks ago I decided to see Kate Middleton’s dress at Buckingham Palace with Palak in an attempt to really get into the British spirit. It seemed a good place to start since I can’t think of anything more British than the royal family, except perhaps tea. (Palak and most of the other English people I’ve met can tell me more about the British royal family than they can tell me about themselves.)
Also, cool fact – if you select the Gift Aid option when you buy your ticket, you can convert it into a one-year pass to Buckingham Palace! (Gift Aid, as far as I understand, means that the money can be used for some royal function or given to some charity or claimed for tax or something along those lines.

Basically, I don’t care if you’re using the money to butter the Queen’s toast if you’re going give me a one-year pass instead of a one-day ticket for the same price.)
Our ticket also included a (one-year!) pass to the Queen’s Gallery next door. (Love the fat lion - he was part of a table.) We began our trip by rushing through that, making sure to admire at least one painting per room so we felt like we had seem the Gallery in part before moving on to the palace. (Palak had school in 2 hours and we had come for the dress! Plus we had one-year passes so we could come back any time.)

I've been inspired - I now want to commission a painting of my cats when I go home.

I love the sassy horn blower. (Click to enlarge)
After several long queues (lines) we finally made it into the palace.
Rarely has a building made me feel quite so small. Each room was massive and ornately decorated. They flowed into each other seamlessly, the silk on the walls blending between rooms with complementary patterns or colors and the rugs perfectly tying together the walls and the chandeliers hanging from gold plated ceilings. Raised ceilings magnified the already-large rooms and mirrors were set above eye level to reflect the room back to you, creating the illusion of even more space. The colors were soft and tasteful and the furniture sparser, making it seem as if each piece were more deliberately chosen than those crammed into the Castle in Copenhagen.
The experience was definitely made more surreal by going with an English person. Palak must have commented “The Queen actually walks here!” or “This is where they took the photographs after the wedding!” several dozen times at least. (Her knowledge of the royal family seriously impresses me – she recognized where they had taken each photograph in the palace after the royal wedding!) That kind of enthusiasm is infectious, and soon I found myself whispering awed comments and tiptoeing on the plush rugs as if I were on hallowed ground and was afraid of disturbing the peace.
After going through a short exhibition of what seemed to be expensive, rare baubles that the royal family has collected over the last few hundred years (tiny portraits of the Russian Czars, Faberge eggs, flowers made out of gems and the like) we rushed around a corner and found ourselves in front of the dress.
It was displayed with the hem a little below eye level and set a few feet back behind a net to protect it from wandering hands. The dress looked beautiful in the photographs, but it was so much more intricate and impressive in person. Lace covered the torso down to the waist and was embroidered in lines that came to a point on the skirt. More lace was stitched around the hem and rose to mirror the point above while the lace collar at the neck added a delicate, feminine touch. The train was fanned out and also tastefully covered in webs of lace. We circled the dress for about 20 minutes before straying to the case behind it, which displayed her tiny shoes and earrings. The lace on the shoes matched the dress, and you could see signs of wear from the wedding day inside the shoes where the leather was creased.
We followed the signs in awed silence (I’m telling you, that kind of admiration is contagious.) through to the next room where we found what I assumed to be a replica of the cake.
Correction – where we found
the cake. The only parts that weren’t the actual cake were the top three tiers.
What??? It’s been six months since the wedding! And, according to the plaque, a team of bakers had worked on the cake throughout the two months leading up to the wedding.
Eight tiers of cream white piping and frosting roses sat behind the glass, looking as perfect as if it had just been made the day before. The cake inside all of that frosting was fruitcake, which is apparently the royal English wedding cake of choice. You could see the single cut that the couple had made for photographs on the first tier.
As beautiful as it was, I did fleetingly recognize the insanity of paying to see an eight-month-old cake. That was trumped by the oh-my-gosh-I’m-looking-at-the-real-royal-cake-that-Kate-and-William-touched feeling, no doubt a result of the hero-worship that I had caught earlier from Palak and the other Brits around me.

My one complaint from the palace would be that you are not allowed to take photographs inside! I paid over 20 quid (pounds) for my ticket; I should at least be allowed a few souvenir photographs! It’s ok though; I took 53 photographs of the back of the palace and the surrounding park to make up for it. I can’t photograph the inside? Fine, I’ll just fill up my memory card with photos of the outside to spite you! (Sometimes that five-year-old logic pops up again and is hard to refuse. When I was a child and I got mad at one of my parents, I would go on a hunger strike to punish them. Really young me? Not super efficient.)
The thought seems less logical now that a) I have a mountain of identical photographs and b) no one at the palace cares.




That's the wall around the palace. I don't think anyone is getting over that any time soon.
Wands and Dennis Severs’ HouseShruti’s friend from University, Nicola, was visiting from Germany last week. As both Palak and Shruti had training for work on Wednesday, I kept Nicola company as she explored London.

(That is Shruti and Nicola in the photograph.)
A week before, my new American friend Lindsay had told me about a massive toy store called Hamley’s near Oxford Circus that had a huge Harry Potter section. Of course, Nicola and I had to go. Then, when Shruti and Palak requested wands, we decided we all had to get them.
Shruti chose Hermione’s wand, Palak got the Elder wand (the rest of us didn’t think we could handle the power), Nicola got Ginny’s and I got Ron’s (mostly because I think of all the characters, he and I have the most in common).
Best 20 pounds ever spent.
When we met Shruti and Palak at Waterloo station after their training was over and gave them their wands, they both squealed in excitement. Shruti pulled hers out and began casting spells, admonishing us to do the same since “nowhere is safe.”
We all gave in later on the train ride home.

“Shruti, people are staring.”
“No they aren’t! I cast Muffliato - they can’t hear a thing.”
I love that she has no shame with her wand. Soon we were dueling and most of the passengers were laughing or jealous. (Again, best 20 pounds ever spent.)
Before our fun-filled train ride, Shruti, Nicola and I went to the Dennis Severs’ House while Palak went to her lectures. (She has school Wednesday evenings.)
I had found the museum on a list of must-sees in London the week before. The website said “to enter its door is to pass through a frame into a painting, one with a time and a life of its own. The game is that you interrupt a family of Huguenot silk weavers named Jervis who, though they can still sometimes be heard, seem always to be just out of sight. As you journey off in a silent search through the ten rooms, each lit by fire and candlelight, you receive a number of simulations to your senses.”
The house was truly amazing. It was similar to being sucked into the British spirit at Buckingham Palace, only the House was much more personal.
You need to email or call to make reservations since they only let a limited number of visitors enter each night. This prevents you from running into many people while you are inside, thus preserving the illusion that you are in another time. The house is only open a few nights a week and talking is prohibited as it also disrupts the illusion.
It was a good thing I remembered the address of the house because there were no signs indicating that it was anything more than a normal house. The man who runs it was waiting outside the door, and after chatting with us and asking us to leave all of our worries at the door and enjoy the atmosphere, he directed us downstairs to the kitchen where we would begin our tour.
Each room is decorated in a slightly later style than the last, starting in 1724 and ending in 1914. Everything in the house is authentic and presented without restrictive glass or ropes. The food in the rooms is half eaten and real, making it seem as if someone living in the house left the meal halfway through to attend to something and will return shortly. In some rooms they’ve hidden tracks that play horses clopping by outside or people walking overhead. The lighting, the sounds, the surroundings and the smells all combine to take you back in time. It really feels as if you are spying on a family in their home.
There was a paper upstairs with the house slogan, “You either see it or you don’t,” prompting you to see the family in the rooms and to imagine further. “Scrooge has just seen the ghost of Christmas Past sitting in the chair behind you and is alarmed – do you see it?”
After about ten minutes, it’s hard not to see it.
The house was amazing. It was like consuming numerous paintings, several plays and a novel or two all at once, only instead of simply observing, you are literally in the middle of the story.
An hour passed in what felt like 15 minutes. By the time we stepped back onto the street, present-day London felt more contrived than the scenes we had just left behind.
RLOPreface: This is not an observation specific to London, just one that happened to arise here.
Palak’s house has two bathrooms – one downstairs with a

conventional, stand-up-while-bathing shower, and one upstairs with a bathtub and a shower handle that you pick up from a stand at the front like an old fashioned telephone. (Thank you Exchange3D.com for this photo!) The women of the house usually use the upstairs bathroom, while the men tend to take over the downstairs one.
The first time I entered the bathroom to take a shower I was a little confused as to how to go about showering in a tub since I’ve only ever taken showers standing up. I stood confronting the tub for a while, trying to work out the logistics of bathing while sitting. In my mind, when I picked up the handle, water would spray everywhere, my arm would get tired, I would be freezing without a steady stream of piping hot water hitting my back throughout the duration of my shower and rinsing my hair would be rather like your mom pouring cups of water over your head when you were three.
My shower (of course) was much less dramatic. Water stayed in the tub, my hair rinsed easily and my skin was literally steaming from the temperature of the water. Plus, if I closed or squinted my eyes, I could kind of pretend I was a grand lady in the 19th Century. In short: loads of shower fun.
After a few showers I had a thought! An epiphany, if you will.
Washing my face is a pain - I always get soap in my eyes and I hate turning my face directly up into the water since the pressure hurts. But this showerhead is a handle and thus not attached to the wall, meaning I can direct the water in any direction I want!
Apparently my common sense is severely lacking in unfamiliar situations.
Grinning at my brilliance, I washed my face, groped for the handle with my eyes shut, and pointed the handle straight up at my face.
Grin erased.
What resulted was not a gentle, pleasant splash of water. No, when you direct a stream of water that is coming out of a faucet at a high pressure upward, you get a freaking geyser. Luckily it stopped short of the ceiling because I don’t think I would have been able to reach that with my towel.
London-ismsFiddly – delicate, wobbly
Match – game (i.e. rugby match, football match, etc)
Proper – they use this word often to mean “good,” “really,” “very;” used to place emphasis on whatever follows it. (i.e. “He’s proper mad,” or “That was a proper match)
More-y – something that you start eating and then want more of (i.e. “Potato crisps are so more-y; I can’t stop eating them.)
Pisstake – joke (i.e. “It was just a pisstake.”)